Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
